Archive for 2015|Yearly archive page

’78 International Harvester Scout II, Part 6 (I think, it’s been so long since the last one)

In Uncategorized on October 23, 2015 at 9:32 pm

I think it has been about 9 months since the last update.   I have in fact done some work on the truck.  I just didn’t finish anything until today.  Scratch that, I did get the reverse lights hooked up within a couple days of the last update.  I also did start to tear down the motor.  I got the accessories removed included all the stuff for the non-working air conditioning system.  At some point I might add AC back to the truck but the system that was on the truck didn’t work.  Considering I don’t own a roof for the Scout, air conditioning is probably not all that important right now.   I also got the radiator, radiator fan, pulleys, water pump housing, and the water pump pulled.   Finally I started to take the actual motor apart and discovered that the gaskets where just fine.  The vacuum leaks existed because none of the bolts where torqued down properly.   I never even thought to check that before ordering the gaskets and seals.   I probably could have just torqued everything down and been good.  At this point though I had the head covers and intake manifold removed so I decided I would clean up and paint what I removed already.  I replaced the gaskets for everything I had pulled off as well.   I took the parts and brackets in to work to use the sand blaster and get everything cleaned up nice.  I bought black and orange engine enamel to paint everything with.  As it turns out I really hate the orange and it doesn’t appear to be sticking very well on the cast parts either.

In the middle of this I got a full time job and tried to keep my part time job as well as going to school full time.  Needless to say, I ran out of time to work on the Scout and the gathering inertia was lost.  I ended up quiting the part time job fairly quickly but still spent about 65 hours a week (and almost all of my day time hours) at work and school.   Parts languished on my work bench waiting for me to get the time and energy back to continue working on the Scout.

Recently my schedule has changed enough that I have time off during the day and I started working on reassembly.  I got everything except the radiator and associated hoses reinstalled over the last few weeks. I wanted to finish everything up and start the truck last weekend but I got the flu.  Despite running a pretty good fever I still tried to get everything organized so that I would be ready to start putting everything together first thing this weekend.  Working while running a fever turns out to have been a mistake as I threw one of the new radiator hoses away and kept an old one.  A quick trip to NAPA this morning fixed that problem and I installed the radiator and hoses today.

Despite sitting for the last 9 months without head covers, intake manifold, water pump/housing, alternator, thermostat, radiator, and all the belts and hoses the Scout started up first time and sounded strong.   I do have some coolant leaks that need to be fixed but the truck is alive again.  Hopefully this time I can keep that inertia going.


Project Ruckus – Part 5 Weight Savings (and then adding some back.)

In fabricating, project truck, ruckus on March 21, 2015 at 8:37 pm


In an attempt to shed some weight and to make the Ruckus look a little more industrial I removed the floor boards and (once I get the next package from will remove the stock airbox.  The stock muffler and it’s plastic muffler shield will be dumped as well.  Ultimately I would like to remove all the plastic.  Some of it fulfills an actual need and will need to be replaced with some other material.  To that end I decided I needed to add some sort of over the motor to replace the original floor board that runs the entire length of the scoot.   Last night I played around with design that would run the entire length of the upper frame.  Unfortunately you can’t bolt a flat sheet across the top of the frame due the way the wiring harness is run and the associate mounts and supports.  I wasn’t happy with the way my solutions to this problem looked so I decided to sleep on it and try again this morning.

I decided that I would make two panels.  One panel would fill the section of frame over the rear fender and the second would actually mount to the side panels of my cargo box under the seat.  The first panel was easy.  I just chopped off the rear section of the piece I had fabricated last night.  I used a couple sections of hose to act as spacers between the frame mounts and the panel.  Then I sprayed the new panel with black plastic dip and a plastic clear coat on top and primer and black spray paint on the bottom.


Painting the panel.

The finished panel mounted on the frame.

The finished panel mounted on the frame.

The spacer was made using sections of rubber hose.

The spacer was made using sections of rubber hose.

The second panel was a little harder although not much.  The seat frame gets a little wider (about an inch) from front to rear to I couldn’t get a way just with chopping a square chunk of sheet.  But with some basic measurements I was able to  cut and bend a piece to fit.  The front of the panel flares up so that there won’t be a slot between it and the front panel for things to slide through.  The sides fold down to form mounting tabs to the side panels.  This lets me adjust the height of the panel so that it does not interfere with any of the wiring harness or associated hardware and lets me hide the mechanical connectors under the floor so that they don’t catch on whatever cargo I through in there.  I thought about spot welding the panel in so that there wouldn’t be any visible connectors that would need to go through the side panels.  I decided that I liked the more industrial look that would give me though and went with pop rivets.  I was originally going to use standard rivets but since the back side of the rivet will not be seen I figured I could get away with taking the easy route this time.  I really like the look of rivets.  I think I want to do the entire bike in naked aluminum sheet and rivets for a WW2 fighter look when I have more time and experience fabricating.  I decided I would spay the inside of all of the seat panels with the rubber dip to cut down on sound and vibration although I left the outsides green and the underside of the floor I just painted black.  Once I got everything painted I assembled everything and put the frame back on the Ruckus.

Painting the panels with plastic dip.

Painting the panels with plastic dip.

Getting it all put together.

Getting it all put together.

Rivets are cool.

Rivets are cool.

Inside the under-seat cargo space.

Inside the under-seat cargo space.

A look through the back.

A look through the back.

I did weigh the replacement panels and associated connectors but I should have come out ahead of the stock plastic floor pan and I prefer the plastic-less look of the Ruckus regardless.  Sometimes fashion comes first.  The Ruckus is much quieter now as well.  I don’t know if it was just adding the panels back in above the motor or if the plastic dip paint is the cause of this, but I like it.  I don’t mind some noise but just hearing everything vibrate doesn’t add anything to the experience.  Speaking of unwanted vibrations…   I also added that little clip that connects the two battery box halves together and slid into the top of the front floor boards.  I had pulled it out to facilitate removing the floor boards and thought that it might rattle against the front frame if it wasn’t clipped into the floor board so I had left it of.  The vibration noise from the battery box was really annoying though so I reinstalled it to see it would make a difference.  It really does.  I might spray it with plastic dip as well to cut down on any noise it make rubbing against the front frame but I’m not sure it is needed.  That’s it for today.

Project Ruckus – Part 4 coke can tuning

In Uncategorized on March 14, 2015 at 11:06 pm

I needed a new air filter for the Ruckus.  The old one is pretty dirty.  I knew that eventually I was going to put a K&N intake/air cleaner on the bike. Rather than buy a regular air filter now and then buy another air filter (the K&N) in the near future I just bought the K&N now.  I was told that I would have to re-jet the carburetor if I added an intake with higher air flow.  (A carburetor has a number of fuel nozzles called jets, that can be changed to allow more fuel into the intake airstream.) Of course I ignored that.  I’m still not 100% sure that re-jetting is necessary.  At the very least though, adjusting the fuel/air mixture is necessary and it takes a special tool to do that on this carb.  I don’t have that tool. (yet.) So running the new K&N is problematic.  I spent my morning trying a tip I read on one of the Ruckus forums.  That tip was to use a strip of aluminum can and place it over the end of the intake pipe under the air filter.

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I tried a number of sizes between 10 and 20 mm wide.  I ultimately ended up with one that was about 15 mm wide.  It ran fine in the parking lot at that size.  I decided that I would ride home from work with it set up this way.  I kept the stock filter and airbox in my backpack as well as some hand tools as insurance.  The first couple of miles it went ok.  I lost a couple of mph as my top speed seemed to be about 34 (down from 37).  At around the 2 mile mark the aluminum strip started to tear apart under the stress from the incoming air.  For a couple of seconds the bike ran great and top speed jumped to about 38.  Then the aluminum tore threw the rest of the way and the bike leaned out and died.  This tells me that the strip was too wide and the mixture was a bit rich.  It also tells me that strips of a soda can will not handle the stress of being an air-dam in the intake.  I pulled the bike into an empty lot and swapped the stock airbox back onto the bike and rode the rest of the way home.  Oh well, no guts no glory.

I decided to just bite the bullet and order the rest of the planned power adders and a re-jet kit so that I can put everything on and just re-jet the carburetor one time.  I will put the parts that don’t require any carb work on first so that we will be able to see what effect they will have on the bike’s performance on their own.  This includes a variator kit and new kevlar belt.  The variator is a type of continuously variable transmission that is used on the Ruckus.  I also ordered some stronger clutch springs to compliment the variator upgrade.  After getting some data on how that works I will install the new exhaust and reinstall the K&N.  I will then do the carburetor tuning (I ordered the fuel/air mixture adjustment tool) and hopefully get the jetting figured out.  Finally I have a new computer (CDI) that will get installed.  It will remap some of the timing curve and raise the rev limiter.  Because I have a used 2003 ECU in my bike the rev limiter is at 8000 rpm.  The CDI will get rid of that and set it too 10800.  I believe that is what the limiter is set at on 2006 and newer ECU’s already.  And that will be the end of the power upgrades.  I will still need to extend the chasis frame so there is a bit more leg room and change the handle bars to some drag style bars.  I also plan on upgrading the front drum brake to a disc brake and upgrading the suspension.  So that’s the road map for the future.  See ya next time.

Project Ruckus – Part 3, I’m too tired for a catchy chapter title

In project truck, ruckus, scooter on March 13, 2015 at 5:34 am

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Some things have changed since last we spoke.  First of all the color.  I thought it was little more olive green than what it turned out to be.  I’m not sure what I would call this color exactly.  I thought about ditching it and getting a true olive drab but this color kind of grew on me and I’ve decided to keep it.  It does all need to be taken apart again, touched up, and then clear coated.  I thought I had a can of flat clear coat when I started painting everything but that doesn’t actually appear to be the case.  Hopefully this weekend I will pick up some clear coat.  At which point I will disassemble everything again and touch up the green as well as paint some accents that will be done in white and then clear coat it all and reassemble it.

The second big change is the seat frame.  I’ve enclosed it so that I can actually use the under-seat storage and not have everything fall out.  I’ve left the back open so that I can just drop stuff in there without having to open the seat.  (it hinges open.)  I may enclose the back at some point but for now I will live with it as-is and see how I like it.  Besides enclosing the back will be much harder than the sides and front were.  The shape is a bit more complex and includes a couple of curves that would need to be rolled exactly the same.  I managed the curve on the front plate but I think the back plate will be harder.  Also there are some rear LED light kits that mount under the seat and replace the big light cluster thing that is mounted on the back of the frame right now.

Anyway, I started this project by sketching out some mounts on 14 gauge steel and then cutting them out with the plasma cutter.  I removed the seat frame from the Ruckus and ground off the rubberized coating so that I would have some bare steel to weld too.  (I need to pick up some rubber dip spray paint this weekend as well so I can reapply the rubberized finish.)  Then I welded the tabs to frame and drilled some mounting holes in them.  Then I used some cardboard to trim out templates for each panel.  I transfered the pattern to 22 gauge sheet metal and cut them out using the shear and some hand snips and sanded the edges.  I painted everything up (just using gloss black on the frame for the moment) and then bolted the panels to the tabs.  They just connect to the seat frame so that I can still remove it as one assembly without adding a bunch of bolts to the process.  I could add some tabs to the rear frame and bolt them to that as well.  It would add some stiffness to the frame but I don’t think it is needed or is worth the extra work when removal of the seat frame is required..

I’ve got a package waiting for me at the post office that includes a new K&N intake as well as high performance oil, and new spark plugs and wires.  Essentially it is just upgraded maintenance stuff.  The air filter on there now is really dirty and the stock air box is pretty bad (and ugly, really the ugly is the important part).  I’m guessing the oil was never changed (it only has 2600 miles on it) but it is probably time to do that as well.  The plug and wire change is just for some (hopefully) improved performance and fuel economy.  I can hit a top speed of 37 mph right now.  We will see if I get any more speed out of this general maintenance.   I probably won’t be able to tell if I am getting any better gas mileage though.  I did fill up yesterday but I doubt I will have used enough gas to figure out how much mileage I am getting before doing the work this weekend.  I am still trying to decide if I will fabricate the frame extensions I need make the cockpit a happier place for tall people to live in.  I have found some nice billet ones that are about $100.  I can make them for free, but I’m not sure how I will do it yet as I don’t have chunks of aluminum billet laying around or the machining skills necessary for that sort of fabrication.  If I make them, they will be created using square tube.  I will have to get a new throttle cable, brake cable, extend the fuel line, and possible extend the electrical harness as well when I do the extension.  If I get lowered handle bars I might free up enough slack to get away with the current cables and wires.  Essentially I need to the handle bars first I guess and see what that gets me.  Anyway, that is all for the future, have a good weekend everyone.

Project Ruckus – Part 2 Putting it all together

In Uncategorized on March 8, 2015 at 10:05 pm

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This is what my Ruckus looked like when I began the day.  In theory I had a working ECU to plug in and the rest of the parts and their associated bolts and screws where included in the pile of stuff the motorcycle shop had given me.  Plugging in the ECU and connecting the rest of the wiring harness was pretty easy.  As it turns out I’ve either missed one though or have a bulb that is burned out as the turn signal indicator on the dash doesn’t blink to let me know I have the blinkers on.  I will have to sort that out at some point.  The trickiest bit was just figuring out what order parts needed to be assembled.  Honda used a minimum of fasteners and so parts build on top of each other and get assembled with the just a few bolts that are common to a number of parts.  I only had about 8 bolts to and a couple of screws but they were all installed and removed 2 or 3 times each until I got it all figured out.

The front body panels started out life orange.  Apparently the previous owner didn’t like the orange that much as they had painted one of the panels black, badly.  Then they put stickers on it.  The stickers were removed but none of the residue was.


I gave it a quick sanding and hit it with some more black paint and a satin clear coat.  It probably should have been gloss to go with the rest of the paint but I was using what I already had.  At some point the bike frame will be powder coated black and the body panels and some add on stuff will be olive drab.  But for now black and orange is fine.


While the paint was drying I went to the local gas station and got some fresh gas to use.  Once I returned I reassembled the last body panel and filled up the tank.  It took a few minutes of trying to get the engine to run and about 10 minutes of running on idle before it would keep running if you gave it any throttle.  Finally it got everything cleared out and ran without issues.  It does need a new air filter as the old one is very dirty.  I am assuming it will need an oil change and a new fuel filter as well.  I will get all of those done in the next week or so.  I tried to do them today but none of the motorcycle shops near by are open on Sundays.

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The top end with me on the it is about 37 mph right now.  It accelerates ok up to about 25-27 and then takes a little while to get up to 35ish.  If you start out with 100% throttle from a stop it bogs a bit on launch but if you use a little patience it takes off just fine.  I think a basic tune up will help with this a bit.  It will never be fast.  I do plan on doing some performance work to it but 45-50 is probably the best case top speed in my plans.  If I can reliably hit 45 then I will be happy.

One of the things that needs more immediate attention is some mods to make the Ruckus more comfortable to me.  I will try making some spacers this week to fit between the front and back halves of the frame.  This will give me another 1.5 inches of room.  Also new handle bars are a must.   I will be replacing the stock plastic floor pan with one made from metal tubing that include foot pegs in the front.  In the mean time I bought some bicycle foot pegs today and installed them in the stock frame holes in back.  You can see them in this photo.


I also want to get a kick stand.  The center mounted stand is a bit of a pain to have to use every time.  A front disc brake kit is also going to be installed sooner rather than later.  The brakes work eventually but they are anything but strong right now.  I guess that is about it for now.  I have enjoyed driving it around town today.  You have to embrace slow when you ride it, but if you can do that it is a lot of fun.

Project Ruckus – Part 1 The Buying Experience

In Uncategorized on March 8, 2015 at 6:30 pm

I have been looking at buying a scooter or small motorcycle for use as a commuter bike for the last year or so.  For most of the last year I had been working one town over and had to traverse either 65 or 55 mph roads depending on the route taken.  This meant that my favorite looking scooter, the Honda Ruckus was out of the picture.  I looked and looked and even went and sat on some bikes and scooters and didn’t really find anything in my price range that I fit on and liked (I am 6’2″ and around 195 lbs.)  So I didn’t get anything.

Situations change, my new job has a commute of 3 miles and is just across town with speed limits maxing out at 35 mph.  I realized this a few days ago and started thinking seriously about getting a Ruckus.   While perusing Craigslist I ran across a Ruckus with a lot of work done and a note at the bottom saying that the work was performed at a shop in Sunnyvale called Battle Scooter.   (Turns out this a pretty well know shop nationally within the Ruckus scene.)  One of my coworkers is a huge scooter fan.  He owns a couple of scooters and a noped (a moped without peddles).  He also lives in San Jose.  I asked him if he had heard of Battle Scooter.  His reply “That is a good friend of mine.  We rode Ruckuses to Colorado together, including about 500 miles of interstate.”

Background check done, I decided that I would drive up to Battle Scooter and pick their brains about how realistic a Ruckus is for somebody my size and what sort of work I should think about doing on to one on the performance side of things.  Unfortunately when I got to Sunnyvale the shop was closed as Jason was out helping a customer so I ran over to my coworkers house to check out his noped.  He let me drive it around the hills above San Jose for a while and enjoy the great weather while I waited on Jason to get back to his shop.


Turns out it is pretty easy to make the necessary changes to a Ruckus to accommodate my height.  While we were talking about my budget Jason suggested that I run over to a local motorcycle shop as they had a Ruckus that was running that I could probably pick up cheap.  He said that he had been called over to diagnose the problem and it was a bad ECU.  He thought that I could probably pick it up for a lot less if it wasn’t running than if I waited on them to fix it.

I ran over the motorcycle shop and looked at the Ruckus, it looked like it was in decent shape (despite being in a few pieces) and looked to be completely stock.  It had about 2500 miles on it and was 2011 model.  I asked what they wanted for it.  They hemmed and hawed for a while saying they really wanted to fix it themselves and they would probably be asking about $2200 for it.  I pushed a little more and was told that if I was willing to pay what they had into it I could walk out the door with it that day.   They paid $1250 for it auction and had replaced the key and ignition for another $250.  That was what they had originally guessed was the problem.  They had also put a new battery on it.  I offered $1500 and they took it.  We got it loaded it in the back of the truck and I headed back over to Battle Scooter.  While I was off buying the Ruckus he had a customer come in to get a tire mounted.  The customer had done a motor swap on his Ruckus recently and had the original ECU for sale if I was interested.  It was for an earlier model but Jason thought it should work with mine without problems.  He called the customer and was told to send me over tho his shop (a t-shirt and sticker printing business in Fremont.)

When I got to the t-shirt shop they had the back door open and I could see they had a barber chair (with a guy getting his hair cut), one ruckus getting a disc break upgrade and about 5 others that had been heavily modified.  After comparing the old wiring harness to mine we settled on a price of $40 for his old ecu.  I loaded everything up and headed home.  If I had waited one more day to get run up to San Jose my Ruckus would have fixed and the price would have gone up $700 dollars.  I spent $1500 plus $40 for the ecu.   Next update will be putting it all together and seeing if it runs.  Fingers crossed.


Hobart Handler

In refurbishing, welding on March 7, 2015 at 6:41 pm


A while back I was given an old Hobart Handler MIG welder.  According to the serial number it was manufactured in 1987.  Since then Hobart has been bought-out by Miller.  Consequently nobody makes parts for the old Hobart.  The welder was available to be given away because it wasn’t working.  The lead for the welding gun (containing the power wire, gas line, and liner with welding electrode) was snagged on something.  The outer cover was ripped badly and the liner got snagged.  There was no visible damage to the liner but you could no longer feed electrode wire through it.  I had hoped that I would be able to just buy a replacement liner.  I went to Barnes Welding Supply here in Salinas, CA.  They didn’t have anything but were willing to try and track something down.  They called Miller.  Miller told them to just give up and buy a new welder.  They called Hobart.  Hobart tried to sell them $250 of parts from 3 different manufacturers and still wasn’t willing to guarantee that it would work.  Bernard was listed on one of the parts pages on the Miller website as providing replacement guns for the Handler series so they were called next.  They didn’t have a gun or a liner that would work but thought they had an adapter that would let us connect a Tweco gun to the Handler.  That sounded promising so the guys at Barnes ordered that for me.  And then we waited.  It took a couple of weeks for the part to arrive but it finally did arrive yesterday.  I loaded up the welder in the back of the truck and ran over to Barnes.  The adapter wasn’t even close to what we needed.  For the next hour or so we messed around with a variety of products they had in stock and check more documentation online to see if we could get the welder working.  Finally we found a Miller liner that would fit in the gun with the stock connectors.  The one caveat to that is that we couldn’t hook up the gas with this setup.  Generally speaking MIG welders require a shielding gas.  Luckily this liner and gun were able to accommodate a flux core wire.  Flux core looks a like MIG wire except that it is hollow.  Inside the wire is a flux (hence the name).  The flux burns and creates fumes that provide a shielding gas for the weld bead while it solidifies.  Flux core isn’t as pretty as a normal MIG weld.  It requires more clean up as you have to remove the flux layer from the weld as well.  On the plus side it doesn’t require me to purchase a gas bottle and gas.  It is also welds much better outside (where there is wind and such).   The upshot is that after making the guys at Barnes work to find an adapter, waiting two weeks to find out the adapter wouldn’t work, and then spending another hour tearing the Hobart (and their shop) apart, I walked out of the store with a working welder.


I spent some time in my shop this morning playing with it and trying to figure out the correct settings.  I put a few beads down adjusted some stuff and repeated.  I think I have it more or less dialed in.  Now I need to dial in my welding.  I’ve never used flux core before this morning.  I have used dual shielding wire.  Dual shielding uses a shielding gas such as CO2 just like MIG but it also contains a flux core.  Essentially it is the belt and suspenders approach to shielding gas.  🙂  It requires a different polarity than flux core and MIG and feels a bit different as well.  I don’t have much experience with it either but I think it helps as it is about as close to flux core as you can get without actually welding flux core.  The flux core has a lot more spatter than I would like.  This may be something that is related to my settings or technique though.  I will have to watch some videos and practice some more before I will now the whole story with that.  Here is a shot of my final bead (yes I know it runs over a previous one).


It’s not perfect but I think it is acceptable.  My next project is to build a cart for the Hobart out of angle iron and some flat stock.  I plan on cutting out a section of my welding tables support and bottom shelf (and adding in some additional support to build some strength back in) so that I will be able to roll the new welding cart under the table when I am using it in the shop.  I did discovered that I need to add a fan to the shop to blow the fumes and smoke out.  It got a little smoky in there this morning and I didn’t do that much actual welding, although the paint on the back side of the metal I was using catching fire didn’t help in that regard.

Death of a Salesman (by which I mean my 3d printer)

In Uncategorized on March 2, 2015 at 2:22 am

My Prusa i3 3d printer is finally dead.  I had ordered a new RAMPS card and motor controllers for it.  When I got everything assembled the motors didn’t want to move.  Occasionally they would move one step but mostly they just made noise without any movement.  My cousin and I flashed the firmware on the card and adjusted the POTS to the correct voltage (the POTS are on the motor controllers and control the voltage that goes to the individual motors.)  We tried the new RAMPS on the old Arduino Mega.  We tried the old RAMPS on a new Arduino Mega.  We tried the new RAMPS on the new Arduino Mega.  We tried both sets of motor controllers.  In the end we got a loud snap and let some of the blue smoke out.  We couldn’t see what fried but the printer wouldn’t even show the LCD display anymore.  It would light up but none of the display options would appear.  The new Arduino board still appears to be functioning so it is probably the new RAMPS board that is dead.  The old RAMPS and the old Arduino were also toast as was apparent early in our testing.  As of 3 PM on the Ides of March I called it.  The printer was dead.  I have had nothing but trouble with it for over a year now.  I’ve replaced pretty much everything except the wooden frame.  I am done throwing money at this one.  If I get a new one, it will probably be a delta style printer.  I’ve started looking but probably won’t pull the trigger for a couple of weeks at the earliest.  Depending on what comes up in the next couple of weeks I might not buy one again then either.

Hobo Hood

In painting, welding on February 22, 2015 at 1:34 am

I had an idea for a paint job on my welding hood.  I threw a bunch of painters tape on the helmet and sketched in my ideas.  I wanted to paint some classic hobo graffiti on the sides.  I knew that I wanted to include Herbie’s hobo under a palm tree and the Colossus of the Roads signature graffiti.  I thought I might include some of the hobo short hand signs as well.  I found some slogans that were written with the graffiti and thought that I might include one or two of them as well.  I got everything laid out on my helmet (a 3M Speedglass 9100).

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But while browsing through the photos of graffiti on the old rail cars I decided I really liked the look of the white chalk on the rusty metal of the cars.  I started thinking that maybe the hood should be painted like rust and it should probably be a little more angular than the robot styling of my Speedglass.  So  I went down to my local welding supply store and bought a basic Miller helmet for $40.  It doesn’t have the auto darkening but it does have a nice large viewing window and a slot for a cheater lens.  Most importantly it was cheap.  🙂  It was gloss black plastic which isn’t ideal.  But it was cheap.

Anyway, I scuffed it up with some sandpaper and hit it with some plastic primer and then started in on my rust paint job.  I have some specialty model paint for corrosion so I used a bit of it here and there to add to the rust effect.


Once I was happy with that I used a paint marker to draw my graffiti.  I wasn’t completely happy with the Colossus side or the logo the first time I did them so I put some more rust paint over the top of them and drew them a second time.  Finally I hit it with some clear coat.  I managed to knick it up a bit just putting the hood back together so I need to find a better primer and clear coat at some point probably.  I will just have to see how it wears over the next little bit.

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In the mean time I’ve come up with a new idea for my Speedglass helmet.  Maybe tomorrow I will try and get it figured out.

’78 International Harvester Scout 2, part 6A

In Uncategorized on February 22, 2015 at 1:10 am

I’m not sure this is really worthy of calling part 6 but it is the beginning of the next stage of work so I guess we will jump there rather than keep updating 5.  Having said that….   let’s update the part 5 projects first.  I got the reverse lights hooked up.20150115_171241 20150115_172539

The photo on the left shows the plug for the reverse light switch on the transmission.  The other photo shows the lights on.  Brilliant!  🙂  I do need to route the wires from the plug a little bit better.  They need to be tucked up in the dash or tidied up some in the engine bay.  Right now they just run through the firewall and droop down in the engine bay before running under the firewall to the transmission.  I haven’t decided where they will end up yet so for now, they will just have to stay where they are.

Anyway on to pulling everything out of the engine bay to replace gaskets.  Up to this point I have not opened up the motor.  I have just removed accessories.  The radiator, radiator fan and the rest of the AC equipment have been taken out.  The alternator and associated brackets have been removed and the water pump, housing, and pulleys have been taken out as well as the thermostat and it’s housing.  Everything has been cleaned up and painted.  The radiator needs to be replaced and the water pump housing needs a repair.

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As you can see on the last photo I found where the coolant leak was coming from.  Luckily that connection is threaded so I can just unscrew it and replace it with a new part.  The housing itself is next to impossible to find so I’m very happy that I don’t need to replace the whole thing.   I still need to figure out how to remove the water pipes on the housing so that I can replace the o-rings and gaskets on them.  One of the water pipes is a little bit worn on the end that connects into the block.  I think that I can live with it as the bit that is worn down is past the flange and o-ring and is essentially just the bit that hangs out past them in the hole on the block.  But I might need to replace the water pipe or figure out some way to repair it.  That’s it for now.  Work does continue slowly.  Between class, my new job, some rain, and some extracurricular activities the last few weekends I haven’t had much time for the Scout but I work on it as I find time in between everything else.  The head covers and intake manifold are next.  Depending on what I find I might not open up the motor anymore than that.  I do need to replace the oil pan gasket and the differential gaskets as well though.